Memories stirred
Extract from previous post – responses to questions in Red.
A quiet night, however, at 7am became a rowdy morning. There was a great racket from the engine room: was the Webasto (hot water and heating system) about to explode? No, fortunately it didn’t.
Would the dinning decibels created bring complaints from nearby boaters? The boating neighbours were extremely sympathetic as they were experiencing their own stubborn Webasto morning…
Was the day ahead to involve not the planned onward journey but a return to base for engineering assistance…? At a respectable time the Captain sent a text to Colin, the marine magician…
There followed a phone conversation and an instruction from Colin to proceed as planned to Braunston, to moor up outside Midland Chandlers and to call him from there.
Onward then, along the three miles or so of the Grand Union to Braunston Tunnel,
to plunge into the darkness, emerging about half an hour later not far from the top of Braunston’s six double locks.
There was no companion boat to share the workload with, but a cheery volunteer (first day back since surgery and recovery from a nasty fractured wrist) was keen to help. All was going well until a pair of upcoming boats, breasted together, took such a long time to rise and exit the lock ahead (third from the top)
that Cleddau became seriously grounded in the offside mud. Much engine revving. Then significant effort with the long barge pole.
Gradually the boat was eased back into the centre of the pound.
“Stay where you are,” said the lock keeper. “I’ll let some more water down from the top. And wait for the single-hander coming down behind you to catch you up.”
It was a long wait. The Captain, floating about in mid-canal, had the comfort of a full coffee flask; Boatwif had none…
Water was draining away from the lock in front. Two more boats were brought in to ascend while the Captain again worked hard to stay off the mud and in the centre of the short lock pound. Eventually, after a dodgem session, four boats were safely locking up or down.
Down the rest of the locks Cleddau went, partnered by Silver Lining.
There were available moorings within easy distance of The Admiral Nelson pub but the date with Colin the Marine Magician was urgent and a mile further on.
On along Braunston Bottom, past hire boats and historic boats, past iconic bridges and bridge support repairs,
past an unlikely pairing of names,
and a beautiful picture of a fairy with boots!
By early afternoon the Webasto unit was under inspection. The early morning noise that had shattered sleep and repose was reproduced.
“It’s not the unit. It’s not the fan – but your water is all gone,” Colin explained. The header tank that feeds the system had apparently drained dry – and though the cause of the dawn racket was discovered, mystery still remains as to how the header tank (regularly checked and topped up by the Captain) had dried out – and where the liquid had gone. The bilges were inspected (no obvious amounts of water) and advice given: proceed with planned journey; monitor header tank and be alert for leaks.
Opportunity knocked in so far as access to Midland Chandlers allowed the purchase of a new chimney coolie cap.
So what was the planned route? It is to cruise up, along and down the South Oxford Canal, just as far as Cropredy.
Before departure from Braunston a walk up to the village was a reminder of why this quiet place has such eye appeal.
At Braunston Junction the Grand Union bears west under the ironwork towpath bridges and heads towards Napton Junction, (travelled along in 2023 with Cal Guy Jnr ( https://bullfrog-owl-d98b.squarespace.com/boat-update/learning-the-ropes) and also in 2024.
It’s a broad canal from which there are fine rural views.
The destinations on the Junction sign at Napton are in need of a repaint…
Cleddau bore straight on to travel on the South Oxford Canal (for the first time since April 2008 and that was in the opposite direction (1). Past Wigrams Turn Marina, past Napton Marina, past a sighting of the iconic windmill on the hill, to find an overnight mooring near the bottom of Napton Locks..
Fuzzy memories began to surface: didn’t the Godmanchester Gang provide escort up these locks decades ago, one boy sleeping in the engine room, another on the galley floor, what about the others…? There had been a long morning waiting for the top two locks to be unlocked, maybe it was a drought year…?
Near Bottom Lock is a fascinating bench and sign, marking the 250 years of the canal’s existence.
A timeline often provides helpful comparisons…
The climb of 9 locks was on a bright morning, aided occasionally by walkers willing to chat and to push the odd gate.
Famed in these parts is the herd of water buffalo, easily visible from the canal.
Famed too is the narrowboat “moored” in a field. Maybe it has a usage in its non-floating state…?
Here was a second pillbox, installed during WW2, to form part of the Oxford Canal Stop Line.
This was the site of Hill Farm Glamping.
Need any tyres, anyone…?
So this was the landmark radio mast another boater had been talking about…
Nobody had talked about this carved fella, though.
Onward, to Fenny Compton, past the marina and a swan busily reinforcing her nest.
The on-board Pearson’s Canal Companion (too old it seems for a publication date) has a circle pencilled around Fenny Compton. Wasn’t that the liaison place where Cleddau was returned to her crew after the former Tentatrice crew had delivered her there from Bletchley, via Stratford-on-Avon, way back in 1998 (2)…?
There’s a long though narrow straight section after Fenny Compton, as the canal goes through a cutting.
The meandering continues, passing a former railway bridge,
then to meet the first of the Oxford canal lift bridges.
A Canada goose was squatting on her nest, her partner nearby and then came an extraordinary line of boats alongside mooring plots where shepherd huts, caravans and blossom-laden trees were aplenty…
Claydon Lock Flight signals the end of the long summit. What a beautifully kept site. Two volunteers on the third lock down were keen to help and to advise. Down off the summit Cleddau went, to moor below the locks in welcome shade…
Destination Cropredy was just one short hop of 2 miles and 4 locks away now. And what a welcome there would be…!
CRUISE STATS: Norton Junction (Grand Union) - Claydon Bottom Lock (South Oxford): 24½ miles, 20 locks, 1 tunnel
Next time: Cropredy
(1) In April 2008 the boat was moved from her 9 year long mooring on the Kennet and Avon Canal to a new mooring on the Macclesfield Canal.
(2)Stats from Jennie’s log: 3rd -13th August 1998: Willowbridge – Stratford-upon-Avon – Warwick – Fenny Compton: 122 miles, 190 locks, 75½ hours
*2025 Monkton Moments* (Monkton Moment*- a reference to / recognition of Cleddau’s Pembrokeshire connections) - 1 (Lady at Cropredy Lock, made reference to Manorbier)
